Discovering the Grand Massif

The Grand Massif, one of France’s largest ski areas with 265km of linked piste is relatively unknown to worldwide skiers. Sure, we know about Flaine, but that’s only one of the five very different resorts that provide a huge variety of terrain within little more than an hour’s drive of Geneva. What about Samoëns, Morillon, Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval e Les Carroz-d’Arâches? If your answer is no, we will take care of filling this gap. Let’s begin.

Flaine

All of these resorts make superb bases for exploring the region. First, a local geography and history lesson: Flaine, is the original resort and still the capital of the Grand Massif. It was built in the 1960s in a natural bowl in the mountains here and the ski area was developed with the help of the great former world ski champion Emil Allais, who died aged 100 in 2012.

Its proximity to Mont Blanc means that Flaine and indeed the whole of the Grand Massif benefits from the ‘fridge’ effect surrounding the highest mountain in Western Europe. The skiing only goes up to 2500 mt but the resort’s snow record, even in the worst years like 2010-11 has been great.

The skiing here is in a big snowy bowl. It’s great for beginners, families with young children, and intermediates. A new gondola in the Aup de Veran sector gets rid of an old bottleneck and allows a much-improved flow of skiers around the bowl. But keen skiers will want to venture further afield. The Grands Vans chair takes you out of the bowl and into the rest of the Grand Massif.

Morillon and Les Carroz-d’Arâches

Les Carroz, at 1200 mt in the neighbouring valley, is 400 mt lower than Flaine. But the wooded slopes above the village and the open bowl above usually hold the snow well and offer some superb skiing, both on and off-piste.

Next along is Morillon, which is in two parts: Morillon village in the valley is the original farming community. While Morillon 1100 mt (Les Esserts), reached by gondola provides swift access to the main skiing of the Grand Massif.

Samoëns

Further along lies Samoens. The charming old town on the valley floor has a high standard of services, but it isn’t a ski-in, ski-out resort. You have to catch a cable-car from the outskirts of town up to the ski base at 1600 mt the beginning of the day, and back down again at the end of it.

Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval

Finally there’s Sixt, an ancient village tucked away in quite extraordinarily beautiful and peaceful surroundings. If you are an expert skier looking to maximize daily mileage, this is not the place to stay, but no ski trip to the Grand Massif is complete without a visit. This is best achieved by one of our favourites blue runs in the Alps. You start from the top of the Flaine gondola and follow the long Les Cascades piste for a full 14 km all the way down to Sixt for a long lunch. Later, you can explore Sixt’s own little six-lift ski area before taking a bus ride back to Samoens or Morillon for re-entry into the main Grand Massif system. Not bad, isn’t it?

Where to Stay

Terminal Neige Totem

The trendy Terminal Neige Totem Hotel boasts an enviable position in Flaine Forum, just 100 metres from the nearest lift and virtually ski to door access. Funkily recently refurbished, it offers a truly unique stay with decorative inspiration from a Native American culture with superb facilities including a hotel restaurant, bar and wonderful wellness facilities.

Housed in a refurbished Bauhaus building from the 1960s, Terminal Neige Totem displays a monochrome colour palette and sleek designer touches. All guest rooms feature concrete and chestnut furnishings designed by Jean-Louis and Nicolas Sibuet. The loft also features a living room with a fireplace by Marcel Breuer, whilst Pure Altitude products, complimentary WiFi, and flatscreen televisions. Mountain or village views are present throughout this contemporary retreat.

Wake up to striking views of snow-capped mountains and indulge at the hotel spa, Pure Altitude, which also offers a superb outdoor jacuzzi, sauna and fitness center. Guests can secure the latest winter sports gear at the hotel’s ski shop, before hitting the slopes for a blissful day in the French Alps. Upon returning to Terminal Neige Totem, retire to the comfort of the hip living room, equipped with a cozy fireplace, and when evening falls, sample delicious,cuisine in elegant surroundings at the hotel restaurant. A nightcap of chartreuse-spiked hot chocolate at the hotel bar completes an idyllic day.